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PC Builds Gaming Upgrade Kit $558 i3-2120 Budget Gaming PC Build - February, 2012
 

$558 i3-2120 Budget Gaming PC Build - February, 2012 $558 i3-2120 Budget Gaming PC Build - February, 2012 Hot

$558 i3-2120 Budget Gaming PC Build - February, 2012

Build Vitals

Kit
Upgrade
Date Built
Rig Design
Budget

PC gaming continues to outgrow console markets with each year (Steam's usage of 780 Petabytes of bandwidth proves this), and as such, we have evermore users interested in learning how to build a gaming computer on a budget. Short of providing guides (like the one I just linked), our PC build lists make things quite easy to configure and we aim to make the process as fun and informative as possible.

intel-i3-build

Having just completed our $3189 ultimate game development rig (more of a "for funsies" build, really), it seemed appropriate to put together another cheap gaming PC. This build targets those with around $550 to spend, though you could certainly spend more or less as your budget allows. If you have around $700 to spend, it may be worth your time to check our $679 i5-2500 build.

 

This system is built entirely for gaming. It uses a hyperthreaded, dual-core i3-2120 (AMD fans: don't send me your rage email quite yet) that is optimized for in-game performance. AMD plays a game of cores and numbers, but the simple fact is that more cores does not necessarily equate better gaming performance. Many games are still dual- or quad-threaded applications and do not run on more than 2-to-4 threads efficiently. As the i3-2120 is hyperthreaded, it will run four threads while providing the best caching setup and architecture on the market. AMD might have cores in this instance - and they absolutely provide excellent hardware for an ultra-budgeted PC - but AMD's Phenom 960T simply can't compete with Intel's Sandy Bridge architecture on the gaming front (benchmarks by X-bit Labs here).

Enough talking. Let's get into the build.

Budget Parts List Name Price Rebates/etc. Total
Video Card Sapphire 6850 1GB (COMBO 1) $135 -$15, Free DiRT3, Free Shipping $120
CPU Intel i3-2120 Sandy Bridge (COMBO 2) $130 Free Shipping $130
Memory 8GB Corsair XMS3 (COMBO 1) $48 -$8, Free Shipping $40
Motherboard MSI P67A-G43 motherboard $115 -$20, Free Shipping $95
Power Supply Corsair 600W PSU $70 -$30, Free Shipping $40
Hard Drive 500GB Seagate 7200RPM HDD $86 -$10, Free Shipping $76
Optical Drive LG Optical Drive (COMBO 2) $17 -$10 $7
Case Cooler Master HAF 912 $60 -$10, Free Shipping $50
Extra Fan Xigmatek 140mm Red Fan $13 -$13, Free Shipping $0
Total $674 -$116 $558

 

Optional Add-ons (pick and choose as budget allows)

Add-on Parts List Name Price Rebates/etc. Combined Total
Operating System
Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium $100 Free Shipping $658


Video Card:

The 6850 has remained our preferred budget gaming video card for a few months now, and until the market is substantially jolted by this year's hardware releases, the 6850 will retain its dominance in this budget.

We've combined the 6850 with 8GB of RAM (combo here) to give you a not insubstantial $8 discount. Aside from coming with a free copy of DiRT3, the 6850 is comfortably packed with 1GB of memory, operates at a core clock speed of 775MHz (view our GPU Dictionary to understand what these mean), and will effortlessly play most modern games on high settings. Games like Battlefield 3 will require something a bit stronger, but the 6850 will still handle it on medium (possibly a hybrid of medium-high).

Prefer NVIDIA? Need to save $10? While the AMD 6850 tends to outperform the 550 Ti in most gaming applications, there are times when an nVidia card is preferential. Our AMD vs. nVidia guide will help you make that choice. If you feel an nVidia card is right for you, try the 550 Ti.

6850v550tiSource: hwcompare.com

CPU:

Here's where it gets interesting! We have historically used AMD X3 CPUs (~$80) in our "Cheap Bastard" builds and ultra-budget builds, but in the spirit of doing something different and exploring Intel's oft-neglected "low-end" CPUs, we opted for an i3-2120 and a P67 motherboard.

So what's the real difference? Well, the X3 CPUs are definitely cheap... the more competitively priced AMD 960T, though, is a bit closer to what we're using here. Let's stick to comparing those. The 960T has four true, physical cores and operates at 3.0GHz, has 6MB of L3 Cache, and generally average settings for the rest. It's a respectable CPU, to be sure. Intel's i3 route gives us two physical cores and four logical threads (it effectively simulates additional cores within a software environment, but it's a bit more complex than that, of course), 3.3GHz operating frequency, 3MB of L3 Cache, and Sandy Bridge architecture.

 i3-benchmarkSource: Xbitlabs.com

The Sandy Bridge architecture is key, here: it provides integrated execution cores, memory controllers, and an integrated graphics chip, all of which decrease physical travel distance and increase efficiency. Since most games tend to operate at peak efficiency on two-to-four logical threads, the sacrifice of two physical cores is negligible for a gaming rig.

The argument of "future-proofing" for games that will inevitably run on more cores is the most common defense of AMD's approach, but the simple fact is this: By the time the majority of games are running on 4, 6, or even 8 threads, you're going to be building a completely new system. RAM will change. GPU technology will change. Everything will change in that span of several years, so there's honestly no point in attempting to future-proof on a CPU-level. Perhaps a motherboard, but not a CPU. Technology simply changes too much to predict future software directions.

We combined the CPU with an optical drive for a cool $10 discount, which you can find here.

Have an extra $65? Consider the i5-2500 for quad-core functionality.

Memory:

CPU debates can get complex rather quickly, but memory is much more straight forward in the modern era. As previously mentioned, we combined this Corsair XMS3 8GB of memory with the video card for maximum price efficiency.

With its sleek-and-discreet style, the XMS3 memory clocks a respectable 1333MHz and runs smoothly on its standard 9-9-9-24 timings. If you're comfortable with it, consider overclocking the memory to 1600MHz when your system is confirmed to be stable.

Make sure you use a 64-bit OS with this memory.

Motherboard:

MSI has worked hard to make itself known as a gaming brand and is second - perhaps - only to ASUS. The motherboard isn't a fancy Z68 board, but the advantages of Z68 architecture are primarily noticeably in enthusiast builds (~$750+) and will not ever be appreciated in a budget build like this one.

The board natively supports 1333MHz memory but will allow overclocking from 1600MHz (recommended) all the way to 2133MHz (be careful...). The board does have two PCI-e 2.0 slots (x16, x8), but don't plan to run multiple video cards in it. You get 2xSATA III (6Gb/s) ports and 4xSATA II (3Gb/s), but save the 6Gb/s SATA III ports for any SSDs you may acquire in the future. A normal HDD will not utilize the bandwidth of a SATA III port.

You're covered with this board -- it has a solid BIOS and a good track record.

Want More? For $40 extra (with a $30 rebate), you can get MSI's P67A-GD53 B3 "Military Class" motherboard, which comes with OC Genie and UEFI BIOS, as well as SLI support. It's an excellent buy if you can afford the initial investment. After rebates come in, it's only $15 more than the above P67A-G45 B3 board.

Power Supply:

Before I forget: Use the promo code "EMCNHNC47" (no quotes) at checkout to get $10 off this PSU.

Corsair's "Builder Series" 600W PSU is currently on sale for $60 after the $10 instant promo code, and is then dropped down to $30 after the MIR. For 600W, that's an incredible price - especially since Corsair's CX line is known for general stability and reliability. Any other PSU in this range is more than shaky, but this one should serve you well.

600W is more than enough for the hardware we have here, as well as any future add-ons. If you opted to get the P67A-GD53 motherboard instead and would like SLI compatibility, ensure you get a PSU with enough power (comment below or write on our forums for help).

Hard Drive:

We went to NCIX for this one -- for $76 (use the code "63468-1029" at checkout), you get a 500GB, 7200RPM HDD with free shipping. Yeah, we know - prices are still ludicrous compared to the pre-flood prices, but it's not bad (comparatively). This is more than enough to get you started.

Optical Drive:

Combined with the CPU, LG's basic optical drive will - you know - run discs, and stuff. It'll burn them, too. Yeah, fancy. You'll be the talk of the town with those advanced features!

22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM

Case:

Despite searching tirelessly for a more unique case, the HAF 912 returned as the best possible contender in the $50 price range. Cases are a matter of personal taste and cooling ability. If you've read our guide on case fan theory, you know that we recommend a minimum of 3 fans (of sizes 120mm or greater) for a budget gaming system. For that reason, we included an additional 140mm side fan (set it to intake) for free with this case.

It's spacious, cool, and affordable. That's really all that matters.

Feel adventurous? Consider the Zalman Z9 Plus on Micro Center (no need for additional fans).

It's a good rig, right? Comment below if you require customization assistance or, for more in-depth and responsive help, consider our hardware forums.

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  • Nicholas J. Duncan

    1-honestly dumb could be the solution to my problem so any advice is good advice at this point. I dtried swtiching between VGA/DVI (what monitor supports) and both showed no signal

    2- yes i removed the gpu before testing the onboard and still nothing

    3-the cpu fan powers on along with the rest of the fans/hd/optical drive.

  • Lelldorianx
    avatar

    @Nicholas: Let's run through a few more things:

    1 - This might sound dumb, but have you made sure your monitor is in the correct display mode when you switch cables? You might have to hit a button to switch to HDMI/DVI/etc.

    2 - When you say that the video doesn't display with the on-board adapter, are you removing the dedicated card first? The on-board video won't output unless no other video card is present. Try removing your card and try again.

    3 - Does the CPU fan power on?

    4 - If none of the above help, it may in fact be a CPU issue. Get back to me on these and we'll figure it out :)

  • Nicholas J. Duncan

    @Lelldorianx
    to answer your previous Qs

    1-yes i made sure to power off and remove the outlet anytime i moved parts to eliminate chance of error.

    2-yes the 24 pin connected and powers the old mobo and powers everything in the new one

    3-ive tried with 1, 2, and no ram and neither combination changed anything or caused any beeps or stutter. The only thing I noticed is the mobo will not power on anything if the cpu isnt in teh socket but otherwise I see no change in the mobo no matter what is/isnt connected to keep it from powering everything else up

    4-yes the mobo has support for integrated gpu but this still doesnt produce a signal

    5-the mobo has no led's besides on the LAN which isnt very helpful but has a spot for the buzzer speaker that came with my case, which never has beeped on either of my two boards, so perhaps that is one of the issues with my lack of POST?

  • Nicholas J. Duncan  - re:

    Hey I am sorry I took so long to reply! To start I will let you know I RMA'd my board and that got the system to power on when the 8pin is conected. The issue now is that I do not get video out using my gpu or the integrated graphics on the cpu. I tried using an hdtv at first with an hdmi cable from both gpu's and nothing. I decided maybe the resolution wasn't right so I tried it on my monitor with vga and dvi and neither work for either gpu, always saying no signal detected. I originally felt it was the board or cpu because my board never POSTed. Now, even with a new mobo, I still never get beeps. Ive tried readjusting the speaker countless times and still no beeps. I take the RAM out to try to get it to POST that there is no ram and it acts no differently with or without the ram. Ik teh odds of a bad CPU are slim to none so I want to see if perhaps im missing something here. Ik the mobo i had before had an issue as it wouldnt power with the 8pin connected and this one does but the fact I cant get a dispaly worries me that the cpu and mobo were both dead (extremely unlikely)or one died and took out the other (still very unlikely). Ik the moniter and Tv work, Ik the PSU works so that leaves an error on my end, another bad mobo only on the cpu socket/display ports, or that the cpu is in fact dead. Ive checked the cpu for physical damage and there is no burns or visible marks on it. I also tried removing the mobo battery to try resseting the board BIOS and still nothing. This lack of POST really makes me feel its a cpu issue as the mobo is brand new and seems to be funtioning as it should. I want to know if its the cpu so i can try to contact newegg before my 30days for returns passes but this low cpu failure rate really has me worried. I know this could easily be solved if i had another cpu to test but i dont and rly dont want to go to a shop to pay just to test a cpu. Thank you in advance!!!

  • Lelldorianx
    avatar

    @Nicholas:

    It's pretty rarely a CPU issue. Let's run through some basic questions:

    1 - Did you turn off the power supply before connecting those power connectors on the board?

    2 - Have you connected the 24pin connector to the board?

    3 - Have you tried with only one memory module?

    4 - Does the board have an on-board graphics adapter? If so, let's eliminate a variable and remove your aftermarket GPU and just use the on-board stuff.

    5 - Do any LEDs light up on the board when it's on? Read the text near those LEDs and let us know what they indicate, if so.

  • Nicholas J. Duncan  - Bad mobo?

    I recently bought this build but i changed the mobo for the asrock Z68 pro3 gen3 in the i5 build as this board was sold out and the asrock showed some good features. and also used the rosewill challenger case with a rosweill Hive 650w 80+ bronze certified psu. I can get the fans all to turn on and but anytime I plug in the 8pin 12V to power the CPU the fans will spin for like a second and shut down. I tried checking the cpu to be sure it was in correct and there's no signs of pins bent or burns or anything to make me feel it was placed in wrong. I also noticed that even with the speaker on the mobo I never get POST or beeps of any kind even when i try taking out memory cards or anyhting to help lead me towards where a problem might be. I've tried a seperate psu OCZ 600w that my friend had and still didn't get the cpu to power and my psu worked fine on his rig. I've stripped it down to the minimums of the cpu, case fans, and memory but still no results. I'm starting to think it's the board especially since it never beeps. That or the cpu is bad. I've tried finding answers online but most say the psu is teh problem and as i said I've tested it and am sure it works fine. Should I send in the mobo and go from there or should I send in the mobo and CPU just to be safe? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

  • MarkC.  - almost identical to my build except.....

    Gigabyte makes a great Z68 mobo for only $100!!

    Gigabyte GA-Z68AP-D3 Intel Z68 LGA 1155 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s DDR3 2133 ATX Motherboard

    Technical Details

    CPU: Support for Intel Core i7/i5/i3/Pentium/Celeron processors in the LGA1155 package. Chipset: Intel Z68 Express Chipset

    Memory: 4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 32 GB of system memory. Dual channel memory architecture. Support for DDR3 2133/1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules.

    Audio: Realtek ALC889 codec. High Definition Audio. 2/4/5.1/7.1-channel. Support for S/PDIF Out. LAN: 1 x Realtek RTL8111E chip (10/100/1000 Mbit)

    Expansion Slots: 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x16. 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x4. 3 x PCI Express x1 slots. 2 x PCI slots. Support for AMD CrossFireX technology

    Storage Interface: 2 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors. 4 x SATA 3Gb/s connectors. Support for RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 5, and RAID 10.

    Back Panel Connectors: 1 x PS/2 keyboard/mouse port/1 x parallel port/1 x serial port/1 x optical S/PDIF Out connector/1 x HDMI port/4 x USB 2.0/1.1 ports/2 x USB 3.0/2.0 ports/1 x RJ-45 port/3 x audio jacks (Line In/Line Out/Microphone)

    Internal I/O Connectors:1 x 24-pin ATX main power connector/1 x 4-pin ATX 12V power connector/2 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors/4 x SATA 3Gb/s connectors/1 x mSATA connector/1 x CPU fan header/2 x system fan headers/1 x power fan header/1 x front panel header/1 x front panel audio header/1 x S/PDIF Out header/3 x USB 2.0/1.1 headers/1 x clearing CMOS jumper/1 x Trusted Platform Module (TPM) header

    USB: Chipset: Up to 10 USB 2.0/1.1 ports. Etron EJ168 chip: Up to 2 USB 3.0/2.0 ports on the back panel.

  • Desnato

    @Lelldorianx Thanks!! I got the building
    and the wiring part down now. All thats
    left is the boot up thing the one where
    it shows, Overclock, game, settings etc.
    Should I mess with any of those or Should
    i just go straight for the install OS disc.

  • Lelldorianx
    avatar

    @Desnato: Try this video :) It's a bit long, but skip around to answer your questions.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_56kyib-Ls

    Here's a short list of what you need to know:

    - A red or black SATA connector will connect your optical drive and HDD/SSD to the motherboard directly (this is an L-shaped socket).

    - A 24-pin power connector will connect from your PSU directly to your motherboard.

    - A 12v 4-pin or 8-pin (depends on board) power connector will connect directly to the motherboard from the PSU, near the CPU socket.

    - Your video card needs power from the PSU.

    - Your front panel connectors (power button, reset switch, etc) will be labeled accordingly on the motherboard and the tiny wires that are dangling in the case. These are normally labeled things like "PWR_SW" and "RESET" or something along those lines.


    For the most part, just don't force anything. As long as you don't force stuff, you'll be fine :) If you have specific questions about certain connectors, feel free to let me know or start a forum topic with pictures :)


    @hi1234258: PSUs will be cross-compatible in all of our currently-online builds. Just make sure they have enough power. You can do that here:

    http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/

  • Desnato

    @Lelldorianx Just started building the thing and I got most of it done, except for connecting the wires, can't figure most of them out can you help please, I dont want to connect the wrong wires, also I have read the manual but it doesn't help much, I'm very noob at this.

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